…And so to the second and final part of the Channel Islands October Tour, to the wonderful island of Jersey.
I last visited here on a trip with friends for 4 nights in September 2012. We hired (and scraped) a Ford Focus, road a bike around the island, visited the gorillas at Durrell Wildlife Park, hiked the coastlines, jumped off a sea cliff and kayaked the shore. It was an amazing trip and the island proved to be so varied, intriguing and inviting towards a return holiday. That time we had a pleasant stay at the 4* Savoy Hotel in the island’s capital, St. Helier. A very good value stay, and excellent Long Island Ice Tea, from what I can remember!
This time I travelled solo and by Condor ferry from Guernsey. There was a degree of apprehension about this as the last time I travelled with Condor was to St. Malo (via the Channel Islands) in 1999 where the sea was choppy, the ferry smelt of baked beans and stale food and I spent most of the 4.5 hour journey in the toilet. Some 15 years later, upon boarding the ferry the same smell returned, enough to make anyone nauseous. Anyhow, the short 1 hour journey between islands soon commenced and with the temperature a pleasant 18C, bar the quick purchase of a KitKat, spent this time on the outside observation deck taking in the breeze and the view.
Ferry from Guernsey to Jersey
Jersey flag and the Union Jack
Upon arrival into the port of St. Helier, and after a quick M&S meal deal (the only major supermarkets on the islands are M&S, Waitrose and the Co-op) it was time to check into my first hotel before making an onward journey to the core purpose of the first day in Jersey – watching their annual road rally. I stayed on the outskirts of St. Helier in the budget 3* hotel Hotel de Normandie (http://www.channelhotels.com/hotel-de-normandie/welcome.html). Conveniently located facing St. Clements Bay and with an upgrade to a double, the hotel boast its own swimming pool and sauna, even at the budget price of just £36 on a Saturday night including breakfast. You simply cannot argue with that.
After checking in, I made use of Jersey’s excellent Liberty bus services to head up to Durrell Wildlife Park and walk towards the Bouley Bay Hill Climb for a free spectator’s view of the Jersey Rally. Now in its 32nd year, the rally makes use of the island’s tricky and twisty road network and makes for entertaining viewing. This year there were over 80 entrants, motors including a host of Ford Escorts, Peugeot 205s, new Fiestas, Subaru Imprezas, BMWs, Vauxhall Novas, Clios, an Audi Quattro, a sole Mini, and not to mention a Talbot Lotus Sunbeam! Viewing from a number of points in the north of the island, I eventually settled on a chicane section near St. Johns village and a point at the bottom of the Bouley Bay Hill Climb (following a walk through a beautiful National Trust woodland). The sights, smell, sound, all a bonus to see during one’s holiday!
Moving back after the rally and a quick swim in the pool at the hotel, dinner that night was taken in the acclaimed Sirocco restaurant at the Royal Yacht Hotel (http://www.theroyalyacht.com/restaurants/sirocco/). Situated next to Liberation Square in St. Helier, the hotel mimics a maritime theme and is exquisitely decorated and lit on the inside. The food isn’t bad either! Visiting again as part of the Channel Islands Tennerfest promotion, which runs during October and November, I was able to dine at Sirocco at three courses for £20 including coffee and petit fours. First course comprised of Crab and Prawn Cannelloni with apple textures, caviar and pea cream. The main that followed was another seafoord affair, with pan friend black bream with salmon ravioli, pickled cabbage and fish cream sauce. Dessert was a whipped vanilla cheesecake with lemon curd, pistachio crumbs and a yoghurt sorbet. With coffee came a selection of different home made doughtnut, chilli chocolate and milk chocolate lollipops. This was an excellent meal in good surroundings showing highly the gastronomic clout this island is known for. St. Helier felt a lot busier place than I expected, even if it was a Saturday night. A reasonable scene for bars and pubs. Alas for me, an earlyish night in the hotel.
Royal Yacht Hotel, St. Helier
Gorey Harbour, as viewed from Mont Orgueil Castle
Gorey Harbour and Mont Orgueil Castle.
Following a hearty breakfast the following morning at Hotel de Normandie, it was again time to set off fairly early on the Sunday morning, to a day of much poorer weather. Sunday was a bit of a washout, but it did not dampen the ability to visit key attractions, nor did it dampen any spirits! I had intended to visit Elizabeth Castle jutting out into St. Aubins Bay by the sea ferry, but high tides prevent me from doing so. Instead, a short bus ride to one of Jersey’s main icons, Mont Orgueil Castle was in order. Jutting out from the east of the island and towering over the picturesque Gorey Harbour, the castle is one of Jersey’s oldest, built in 1204. It is now owned by the Jersey Heritage Trust.
St. Brelades Bay from hotel
After a good few hours in the castle, a return bus ride took me back to the second and final hotel of the big tour. Residing in a prominent position on my favourite bay in Jersey, the 4* St. Brelades Bay Hotel (http://www.stbreladesbayhotel.com) exudes class, an almost regal and understated elegance. Having booked early on LateRooms I was able to book a sea view room with balcony and breakfast for just £55 per night; the hotel’s rates are £196 for the same room per night ordinarily! And what a room it turned out to be, looking directly over the pristine beach, little harbour and church. No wonder Nigel Mansell chose this spot for his home.
Poolside, St. Brelades Bay Hotel
Waterside, with St. Brelades Bay Hotel in the background
Room with a view, St. Brelades Bay Hotel
Making use of the hotel’s recently built leisure facilities, including pool, gym and steam rooms, a lazy afternoon was duly in order. This was followed by the hotel’s recommended afternoon tea at a bargain £11, watered down with the best cuppa and the house ‘St. Brelades Special’ Champagne and Brandy Cocktail. All overlooking the fantastic bay. A cosy night in of the tv, bath cheese and biscuits and cava followed. Sneeky trip up the hill to the Co-op made the commodities more financially accessible!
On the Monday the weather started a lot brighter and I headed down to breakfast to be greeted by staff in tuxedos and suits, as if we were on a luxury cruise liner. The staff clearly took pride in their job and were very friendly and courteous, some I gather have worked there for an eternity. It made a refreshing and relaxing change to dine in such surroundings, not all of us want to be contemporary all the time. Fully stoked up by a full English and copious amounts of breakfast tea, I headed off for a walk along the bay, over the headland towards St. Aubin village, via Quasnie beach. Upon arrival in St Aubin, with its beautiful harbour, churches and modern boathouse restaurant, a quick seafront tea stop ensued.
St. Aubin Harbour, Jersey
Lunch on the Monday was back in St. Helier at the Michelin Star Bohemia Restaurant, part of the 5* Club Hotel and Spa. (http://www.bohemiajersey.com) Again part of the Tennerfest at just £20 for 3 courses, this represented superb value for a venue that can cost upwards of £60-£80 for a meal. Starting off with nibbles, a small pot of aubergine broth and freshly baked crusty bread, starter comprised of an artichoke foam (soup) with coffee and apple. Main course was hake with the freshest mussels I have ever had, a cream sauce and kale. A supreme dessert of pear and hazelnut torte. Service was the best in this venue, noting arrival solo, a copy of the newspaper was provided and staff were friendly and more than accommodating.
Visiting Corbiere Lighthouse
Feeling refreshed and slightly overwhelmed with the posh dining experience, I headed to the hotel to swim it off and then catch the bus to Corbiere Lighthouse for sunset, so far my favourite place ever visited. Having experienced a fantastic view as the sun went down 2 years ago, it was mandatory to return. Straddling out on a causeway from Jersey’s bracing west coast and covered routinely by some of the highest tides in the world, I had the fortune to be able to visit the lighthouse last time round and climb to the top with a very knowledgeable tour guide. This time ‘just the view’ was all that was required. As the sun went down the rays poked through the clouds, beaming directly over the lighthouse. You really feel as if you are at the end of the world and it seems captivating. All other thoughts dissipate as you marvel at the light and landscape. That turns into darkness as the natural light is replaced by the beam of the lighthouse providing an added dynamic to the photography. It really is one of the must visit locations, really, truly. Tours of the lighthouse usually take place select dates during September, but you can enjoy the view all year round.
Sunset over Corbiere Lighthouse
Jersey, always a memorable experience.
St. Brelades Bay
Room, St. Brelades Bay hotel
Following the lighthouse adventure, I returned to eat in the hotel. This time not on the Tennerfest Menu, but still a treat with a freshly caught Lobster and Prawn salad and Lemon Tart with Jersey Ice Cream.
Tuesday, as the final half day of the experience, started early to make the most of the swimming pool and to justify the smoked haddock breakfast that followed! The last must visit attraction was by bus to the Mansell Collection. A resident on the island, famed racing driver Nigel Mansell has built up his collection of trophies, racing and golf memorabilia and cars and housed them all in the purpose built museum. Accompanied by an audio guide taking you through the history, this is a must for any motoring enthusiast. We once had a tyre from one of Mansell’s race winning cars in our back garden, I wonder if it is still there?
Before returning to the hotel to collect the luggage, the final culinary experience had been booked for 12pm at the Crab Shack, St. Brelades Bay (http://jerseycrabshack.com). Right on the seafront I was treated to their Autumn Special ‘Fish Board’ consisting of very juicy battered king prawns with sweet chilli sauce, crispy battered squid with garlic mayonnaise, shellfish bisque with brandy, a fresh crab taco with tomato, avocado, chillis and red onion, salad and a bucket of crispy chips. While gorging on this delectable lunch, it offered the last chance to absorb the view of the bay during beautiful warm weather before saying goodbye to the whole experience. There was just enough time to have a cornet of real Jersey Ice cream, a short stroll along the bay for photographs and a visit into the sweet St. Brelades Church and Fisherman’s Chapel. Sadly, time to leave and return to the airport , at least with its great observation deck.
St. Brelades Church
The Mansell Collection
Flew BA last time, always the best.
Heading home on FlyMaybe, but it was on time!
On account of this trip taking in the best sights and culinary delights for a fraction of their normal price, Jersey remains an excellent destination for a short break. It still makes me wish to return again and again, and I know for a fact that many people do. It has an excellent series of beaches, historical attractions, war relics (do visit the war tunnels), viewpoints and above all, character. Clean, affluent and quite rural in places, it still achieves this with quite a bustling capital at St. Helier. The best of both worlds. I hope that if you get the chance to visit this island, just an hour on the plane from the UK, that you enjoy it as much as I do. To be further inspired by Jersey visit www.jersey.com.